We returned from my birthday trip to Newport, Rhode Island, late last week. It was my first time in both Newport and Rhode Island. Newport reminded me of a mix of Annapolis, Boston, and Nantucket. It was such a fun place to visit, and if you haven't been, I highly recommend it. Even in the rainy weather, I enjoyed myself. It is so walkable, charming, historical, unpretentious, and unique. I could even picture myself living in Newport. My husband says we shouldn't move anywhere colder than where we already live, and I won't argue with that!
Like Pittsburgh, April can be hit or miss with the weather in Newport, which I didn't realize until we got there. Next time, we will likely visit in mid to late September to avoid the high season crowds while it's still somewhat warm, things are in bloom, and things like the rooftop bars and sailing reservations are still available.
I'll get right into it with everything from our trip. There are tons of photos so get your thumb ready to work!
How We Got There
We flew from Pittsburgh to Providence, connecting through Dulles. Aside from a few return travel hiccups, the trip was easy. Newport is about a 30-minute Uber ride from the Providence airport (which is really in Warwick). We didn’t rent a car as it wasn’t necessary for a short stay, but I think I'd rent one next time to explore more of Rhode Island. The Providence airport had the nicest and cleanest bathrooms of any airport I have ever seen. It was shocking. There were fresh flowers at every sink. It smelled great. I was floored. Even my husband was amazed. You could also fly into Boston. It's a little over an hour's drive.
Where We Stayed
We stayed at The Gardiner House, which is ideally located off Thames Street on Lee's Wharf. It's a charming, elegant 21-room boutique hotel still in its infancy. It opened last year. The hotel has one restaurant, Flora, and a handsome, cozy bar, Studio Bar. Breakfast is included in the room rate, which is a nice touch. The breakfast was continental with about 3 hot entree options: a sweet like pancakes or waffles, a bacon and egg combo, and eggs Benedict. Delicious. You can also order specialty coffee drinks. I like strong coffee, so I would get an espresso and add it to the regular black coffee. This is a tip I learned from a barista at Nemacolin. Nemacolin didn't have dark roast coffee, so she told me to do that, and I've been doing it ever since!
The hotel is not a full-service hotel/resort as it does not have bellmen, a spa, or a pool. I don't know if they had room service, as we did not need that type of service. We found all of the staff to be friendly and helpful. We loved the bartenders in Studio Bar- they are an asset to the hotel!
The room and bathroom were spacious and were stocked with Matouk towels, robes, and linens. The bed was remarkably comfortable. Even the pillows were incredible.
The location is prime. I don't know that you can get much better. On our one lovely day, we were able to walk everywhere! One of the trip's highlights was the stunning sunset in the 'sun room' with a martini in hand. It was so relaxing and memorable.
The interiors are Instagram-worthy, with high-end furnishings, designer fabrics, and a quirky beachy-meets-traditional aesthetic. I especially loved the bedroom’s sisal-style carpet, though several large stains detracted from the otherwise polished feel. For a hotel in this price range, upkeep like that should be more closely managed.
A few minor misses: the soundproofing was poor, as we could hear noise from the hallway and outside. An in-room Nespresso would have been appreciated. Most notably, a scheduled in-room spa treatment was mishandled. The front desk did not record it, despite confirming dinner reservations in the same call. The manager followed up and was apologetic, which was appreciated.
Overall, I would recommend Gardiner House for its location, comfort, and design, but with the caveat that at peak rates (over $1,000 per night on some Jun/Jul/Aug/Sept weekends), expectations may exceed the experience.
Other hotels we considered: The Vanderbilt, Castle Hill Inn, and Hotel Viking.
Eat and Drink
Clarke Cooke House// This was my favorite spot in Newport and one of my favorite restaurants I've ever experienced. I would go back to Newport specifically for their signature dessert, Snowball in Hell, a decadent blend of chocolate roulade and vanilla ice cream, served in a chocolate-coated goblet and topped with Callebaut chocolate and toasted coconut. I had to look that up via Google as we were sitting there, and I was eating it because I couldn't figure out what was in it!! It was one of the most memorable desserts of my life. And of course, it was topped with a sparkler for my birthday! So fun. I would imagine that if Ralph Lauren had a large yacht (he probably does), this would have been what it would look like. I *really* wanted to sit out on the famous deck, but it was closed for the season. The food was a mix of classic, casual dishes, and more upscale seafood options. Overall, my husband and I found the prices for food and drink incredibly reasonable. In Pittsburgh, the Clarke Cooke House would have been at least 1.5x the price if not double for some things. That's telling because Pittsburgh is known for its affordability! I'm curious if the bars and restaurants raise their prices in the summer? Also, the service was 5 stars and some of the best I've ever experienced. It all felt very old school in the absolute best way.
Black Pearl// This was my second favorite restaurant. It felt quintessential New England. It was charming and unpretentious, and the food was delicious. This was my favorite clam chowder; it was creamy but still somewhat brothy with a nice amount of pepper, dill, and, of course, clams. We also thought this had the best lobster roll (cold). It rivaled Brotherhood on Nantucket. I loved the 'outdoor' tent seating, where we sat, but the indoor restaurant was equally lovely.
Wally's Weiners// I love hot dogs, but even so, I don't know I would have popped into this spot without having several of you message me and telling me this is a fun spot. From the front, it's very unassuming. I LOVED this casual little diner-style restaurant and bar. We just shared one hot dog as we were in between dinner and lunch, and got the 'guava lava' cocktail, which was their take on a margarita. It was one of the best cocktails I've ever had. I wish we had more time to eat a full meal here because they had so many delicious-sounding hot dog combos! I know the photo doesn't it make it look all that appetizing, but I loved it!
The Mooring// So many travel sites and blogs recommend this. It was good and had a pretty atmosphere, but it was my least favorite food-wise of the trip. It was good, don't get me wrong, but I'd go to the Black Pearl twice instead of the Mooring. The service was fantastic. We got both a cold and hot lobster roll, and they were both good and packed with lobster, but just not the best I've ever had. The back deck, where we sat, had a beautiful view, so it would be fun to grab drinks and oysters out there in the summer!
Giusto// This is a fabulous modern Italian restaurant on Hammet's Wharf. The menu is inventive and not your traditional chicken parm and alfredo. We got oysters and then the 7-course tasting menu. It blew us away! Every bite was incredible and unique. The service was excellent. This was also a favorite of mine. We didn't have a bad meal the entire trip! I am not a scotch drinker, but my husband ordered the 'Beets Me' cocktail with scotch, red beet, ginger, liquor strega, and citrus, which was fantastic and unique.
Castle Hill Inn// We did Sunday brunch here and it was lovely. It's about a 10- 15ish minute Uber from Gardiner House. We thought about staying here, but decided not to since it wasn't in the thick of things. The wood-paneled lobby area was cozy and the perfect vibe for a stormy afternoon. They had a nice jazz trio playing. There are ocean views all around, which were pretty! I can only imagine what this place is like on a nice day! The food was good, but it was one of my lesser favorite meals of the trip. The move would be to go here for drinks and enjoy the view!
Hotel Viking// This is up on the hill from the wharf area. I am sure it has a proper neighborhood name, but I am not sure. We grabbed a drink at the lobby bar and sat outside on their patio to enjoy the weather. During the warmer months, they apparently have an incredible rooftop bar. This is near the Tennis Hall of Fame.
Flora// This is the swanky restaurant in Gardiner House, where you can eat breakfast in the mornings if you are a hotel guest. They also have brunch! We went on a Sunday evening, so there wasn't a vibe, but the food was wonderful, as was the service. The chef is from Spain, so we ordered the seafood paella, the best I've ever had! We talked to the server at the end of our meal as she handed us dessert menus. I off-handedly asked her if we could order the cookies or brownies from the studio bar downstairs since I was in the mood for chocolate. She said we couldn't, but could go down there and get them. We planned to do that, but she returned and said the studio bar was closed. Oh well! To our surprise, a few minutes later, they came out with a complimentary plate of warm chocolate chip cookies. So thoughtful and a nice touch! They were delicious!
Studio Bar at Gardiner House// Because of the weather, we spent much time within the beautiful green lacquered walls and gilded ceiling. It was the perfect space to sip martinis by the fire on Master's Sunday. It's bustling on weekend evenings and has a fun and vibrant vibe. It's well worth the visit even if you are not a guest at the hotel. This was my favorite part of the Gardiner House.
Mother Pizza// This was some of the best pizza I have ever had. My mouth is watering just thinking about it! They have both Neopolitan and Roman-style pizza. You can only get the Roman-style pizza by ordering at the bar by the slice or a whole pizza for takeout. We sat at the bar, so we got a Neopolitan pizza and a slice of each of their featured Roman pizzas. This is near The Brenton Hotel and the little strip of shops like Athleta and Gap. I would not miss this next time I visit. They have a raw bar menu (ask me how I know), but it's a nice break from seafood! It's also pretty inside, and they have a full bar.
Nitro Bar// I am not a flavored coffee, nor an iced coffee person, so this place was a bit wasted on me as that is what they are known for. This is one of the most popular recommendations, and it is the coffee shop closest to Gardiner House. They have all sorts of flavored iced drinks that look beautiful. I got the dark horse nitro coffee on tap. It was really good!
Places that were on our list but that we did not make it to: The Vanderbilt, White Horse Tavern, Pasta Beach, and Bar Cino.
Things To Do
Because of the weather, we weren't as active and didn't cover as much as usual on a trip like this, but we had a nice, relaxing, cozy time!
- Eat and shop off Thames Street on Hammet's, Bowen's, and Bannister's wharfs. This is where the KJP store is, which was as fabulous as it looks on social media.
- Shop on Bellevue Avenue, which is on the hill near Hotel Viking. You can pop in and out of many beautiful boutiques, such as CK Bradley and J. McLaughlin.
- Walk around! On our one lovely day, we clocked in at 15k steps. Newport is so walkable, and it was so nice to explore everything!
- We didn't do either of these things because of our schedule and the weather, but you can go mansion-hopping to places like The Breakers and walk the Cliff Walk. It was too cold and rainy to do that, and we couldn't fit it in on our one nice day. This is one of the main attractions, so we will return and do this! I love to look at all of the weddings at some of these mansions. Incredible! I want to watch The Gilded Age as it was filmed at the mansions!
- This is another one we didn't do, but they have sailboat and boat tours. There is a year-round boat tour, but we opted out of that, and the sailboat tours are obviously only in season. I would definitely book a sailboat in nicer weather!
- Visit the International Tennis Hall of Fame. We looked around the grounds, which were fun to see, but unfortunately, it was closed for renovations, so we couldn't take the museum tour or do any of that!
Next time we visit, I'd like to rent a car and explore Jamestown, Narragansett, and Watch Hill!
